Before getting tint applied to your vehicle, you may have some questions. For starters, no it does not increase horsepower and no it will not get you more dates (glad we got those two out of the way!).
In all seriousness, this article will cover the basics of window tinting and more.
Window tint is a layer of film installed on a vehicle’s windows. There are multiple different types of film, with different types of material and darkness levels. From carbon and ceramic interweaves to plastic material, there is a tint combination with your name on it.
There are many different reasons to install tint, from increased privacy and blockage of harmful ultraviolet rays to shattered glass prevention, the benefits are incredibly valuable. Not to mention, the sexy appearance it provides.
Yes and no! Laws and regulations surrounding the darkness level of a window tint vary from state to state. These regulations were created for the safety of other drivers on the road, as well as law enforcement officers for when they need to approach a vehicle.
If you’re getting window tint installed by a team of professionals, they will be able to guide you through the legalities of your state.
Before application, professionals will start by cleaning the edges and windows. Afterwards, the film is cut to fit the vehicle’s windows perfectly, as each car has windows that are different in shape and size. The film is commonly assumed to be installed on the outside of the window, but it’s actually applied on the inside to ensure it doesn’t come off from washing or being exposed to the elements. Once the film is applied, a quality control inspection is performed to ensure accuracy.
The application process doesn’t take long and is typically completed in one business day, but the drying and curing stage prolongs the process. Typically your car will be given back to you before the curing stage is complete, but it’s important to not roll up the windows for a few days during this period (3-5 days on average). Most shops will have tape or a sticker they place over your window switches to remind you not to open them.
Not to worry, as the weather conditions will not affect your automotive window tint! Whether it’s freezing cold or burning hot outside, high quality tints have a strong and durable adhesive that will not budge. In winter it just takes a little longer to dry and cure.
If you’re in Minnesota and interested in installing automotive window tint, we’d be happy to help you.
Minnesota’s limits live in Minn. Stat. § 169.71. On a passenger car, front side windows and rear side windows must let more than 50% of light through, and the windshield may not have film applied at all. Minnesota does not allow the AS-1 strip that many neighboring states permit, which surprises people who moved here from Wisconsin or the Dakotas.
Multipurpose vehicles, which covers most SUVs, vans, and pickups, are treated differently: the rear side windows and back glass have no darkness limit, and only the front sides are held to the 50% rule.
Subdivision 4a allows darker film, including on the windshield, when there is a documented medical need. It requires certification from a physician or optometrist stating the condition and that it requires shielding from the sun. Lupus, certain photosensitizing medications, and some post-surgical eye conditions are the usual grounds. Keep the documentation in the vehicle.
No, and this is the single most common misunderstanding. Darkness is visible light transmission. Heat is infrared. A cheap dyed film at 5% looks nearly black and rejects very little infrared, while a good nano-ceramic at 50% is legal on the front doors and rejects far more heat.
What you feel on your arm in July is infrared rejection and total solar energy rejected. Ask for those two numbers on any film you are quoted. If the shop only talks about the percentage, they are describing how it looks, not what it does.
Two front windows take about an hour, and a full set of doors is about an hour as well. Add the windshield and plan on two hours. Removal of old failing film adds significant time because the adhesive has usually baked on, and on rear glass with defroster lines the film has to come off without lifting the lines.
Wait three to five days in warm weather, longer in a Minnesota winter. The mounting solution has to evaporate through the film. Rolling a window down before it cures is the most common way a fresh install gets a peeled edge.
That is normal, and it is water, not a defect. It clears on its own as the solution evaporates, usually within a week or two, longer on rear glass and in cold weather. Do not press on the pockets or try to squeegee them out.
Metalized films can, because they contain a conductive layer. Ceramic and carbon films do not, which is why they are the default recommendation on any vehicle with keyless entry, embedded antennas, or driver-assist sensors behind the glass.
Nothing, if the removal is done correctly. The risk is entirely on old-film removal, where pulling film off rear glass can take defroster lines with it. Steam and patience prevent this; a razor and a hair dryer do not.
A quality ceramic or carbon film should stay stable for the life of the vehicle and typically carries a lifetime warranty against bubbling, peeling, and color change. The purple, bubbling film everyone recognizes is dyed film that has broken down under UV, usually within three to five years.
